I would significantly recognize recommendations from professionals: bite the bullet and danger of spray foam insulation, or ship the builders again up within the roof in December to cut ridge and soffit vents?
Martin, re: modifying the attic around the next Tale bedrooms into a conditioned attic and sealing the soffit vents.... Previous to this most up-to-date notion about insulating with rigid foam on top of the cathedral ceiling, we were intending to cut a ridge vent into your gable ridge, in an effort to meet up with air flow code specifications. Presently Now we have eave vents as well as two rather ineffective gable vents, just one on each side.
"Each property is exclusive. The things that could have saved the roof sheathing of the house you describe could contain:
Thanks - This can be new design, I am the designer / builder, and the more I examine it, I'm liking all rigid - considerably less fussy. The best layer of rigid around fluffy would make my eave far too thick anyways. The air barrier for that T&G ceiling is really the sandwich of felt and taped 3/eight" CDX.
If you'd like to use rigid foam, the best location to set it truly is along with your roof sheathing, not underneath your roof sheathing.
It truly is absolutely not limited to an R 80 Passive Home roof. Consider out the parallel chord trusses and skinny it up.
Here's what you wrote: "I understand that there's no caulk/sealant in between the aspect of your beam as well as the place where by the drywall butts versus it, so There exists a compact air gap there. My memory is the fact that fiberglass insulation was applied. There is without a doubt no vent in the roof."
It is kind of possible to style and design an unvented insulated roof assembly that performs nicely, providing you get the small print correct.
Many thanks once more. The roofer agrees that 2x4 framing to raise the height more than the vented attic would be a workable Alternative to match up the roof strains.
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Very first, many thanks Martin for the wealth of data this Site has. I have been going to it consistently for the previous couple of yrs, ever given that purchasing my initial household. I'm also located in northern VT, zone six but I believe we may very well be pushing 7 as a consequence of localized situations. I've lately had an Strength audit carried out and needed to verify among the list of recommendations. We've got a region having a cathedral ceiling, and likewise a lose dormer crafted into your cathedral. The cathedral ceiling is insulated with r38, and the get rid of dormer with r19. The two are kraft faced fiberglass. The roof is 12/twelve over the cathedral, undecided but less over the dormer, and has snow coverage (usually in excess of 8") from the beginning of January until mid March.
Sorry, Martin, I now know that "new construction" won't automatically signify "new dwelling to be crafted", and "an unvented attic, with R-50 under the roof" ought to have been "an unvented attic, by having an R-50 roof'. Because It can be very clear to me doesn't mean It can be apparent to everyone else.
1. You don't want an interior vapor barrier. Within a very hot humid local climate, the vapor travel is often from the outside towards the interior (assuming your setting up is air conditioned). In case your making isn't ever important site destined to be air conditioned, the vapor generate will however be from the exterior to the interior, but there won't be A lot vapor generate.
No matter whether you choose to make it vented or unvented, get the main points correct — mainly because each cathedral ceiling delivers alternatives to generate significant mistakes